Island Peak Climbing, the name of this mountain was set in 1953 by Eric Shipton’s party who were on their way to explore the Barun Gorge. Seen from above Dingboche the mountain does certainly look like an island in a sea of ice. In 1983 it was renamed Imja Tse, although for most people the expressive name of Island Peak seems to have been retained.
Seen from the moraines between Pheriche and Dingboche the mountain doesn’t look too imposing, dwarfed as it is by one of the largest mountain faces in the world; the South Face of Lhotse. However, on close examination it reveals itself to be an attractive and gorgeous summit with a highly glaciated West Face rising from the Lhotse Glacier. The mountain itself is really an extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated from it by a small col. Above this gap, rising to the south, is a classically beautiful ridge leading to the summit of lmja Tse ( Island Peak). The continuation of this ridge, downward south-west, provides part of the normal route of ascent and leads in turn to the South Summit, seen capping the rocky west surface of the mountain when viewed from near Chhukhung.
Island Peak was first climbed in 1953 by a British team as a preparation exercise in training for Mount Everest. Tenzing Norgay Sherpa was one of the members of this first climbing team.
Island Peak is one of the most famous trekking peaks in Nepal as it requires to made-up mountaineering high altitude experience, you will be completing your dream to reach on top of this imposing Island peak which is supported by our Nepalese professional climbing Sherpa guides.
To climb Island peak, one has the option of starting from a base camp at 5,087 m (16,690 ft) called Pherichya, Gyab and starting the climb between 2 and 3 am. Another admired option is to climb to High Camp at around 5,300 m (17,400 ft) to decrease the amount of effort and time needed for summit day. However, sufficient water supply and concerns about sleeping at a higher altitude may dictate starting from base camp. Base camp to high camp is basically a hike but just above high camp, some rocky steps require moderate scrambling and up through a broad open channel. At the top of the channel, glacier travel begins and proceeds up to a steep snow and ice slope.
From here, fixed ropes may be setup by the guides for the strenuous ascent of nearly 100 m (330 ft) to the summit ridge. The climb to the summit is somewhat difficult due to steep climbing. On top, while Mount Everest is a mere ten kilometers away to the north, the view will be blocked by the massive wall of Lhotse, towering 2,300 m (7,500 ft) above the summit.
If you wish to make your trip longer to Island Peak then our 23 Days Everest Base Camp and Island Peak or 25 Days Island Peak Climbing via Gokyo Chola Pass and Everest Base Camp is option for you.
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu at any time pick up and transfer to the hotel.
Day 02: Sightseeing Kathmandu valley & prepare for climbing & trekking.
Days 03 to 11: Fly to lukla (2840m) 30minutes & start Trek Overnight in Hotel.
Day 12: Summit Island Peak (6187m) and Trek back to Chukung 8-9Hour. Overnight in lodge.
Days 13 to 16: Trek back to Dingboche(3820m) to Lukla. Overnight in Lodge.
Day 17: Fly back to Kathmandu free day to do your own things such shopping, sightseeing etc. Overnight in Kathmandu
Day 18: Departure home or any other destination
“The above information is a guideline and standard outline of what we provide. Our Island Peak Climbing itinerary can be customized at your request to accommodate your specific requirements.” Please email us at: gopi_higherlimitstrek@hotmail.com for your exact requirements.
NOTE: On adventure trip of this type, weather, local politics, transport or a multitude of other factors beyond our control can be result in a change of itinerary. It is, however, very unlikely that the itinerary would be substantially altered; if alterations are necessary the leader will decide what is the best alternative, taking into consideration the best interests of the whole group. Where a change does occur, we do everything our best to minimize its effect, but we cannot be responsible for the results of changes or delays.
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu at any time pick up and transfer to the hotel.
Day 02: Sightseeing Kathmandu valley & prepare for climbing & trekking.
Day 03: Fly to lukla (2840m) 30minutes & Trek to Phakding or Manjo (2840m) 3-4Hours. Overnight in Hotel.
Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazar(3440m) 5Hours.
Day 05: Acclimatization in Namche Bazar. Visit some Sherpa Villages such Thame, Khumjung etc.
Day 06: Trek to Tengbuche (3860m) 4-5Hours. Overnight in Hotel.
Day 07: Trek to Dingboche (43500m) 5Hours. Overnight in Hotel.
Day 08: Trek to Chukkung Valley (4730m) 5-6Hours. And precede trek up to Chukung Ri. Back to Hotel over night.
Day 09: Trek to Island Peak Base camp (5087m) 6Hours. Overnight in Tent
Day 10: Acclimatization and Climbing Practice. Overnight in Tent.
Day 11: Trek to High Camp (5300m) 6-7Hours. Overnight in Tent.
Day 12: Summit Island Peak (6187m) and Trek back to Chukung 8-9Hour. Overnight in lodge.
Day 13: Trek back to Dingboche(3820m). Overnight in Lodge.
Day 14: Trek back to Khumjung(3780m). Overnight in Lodge/Guest House.
Day 15: Trek Back to Phagding(2610m). Overnight in lodge / guest house.
Day 16: Trek Back to Lukla. Overnight in lodge
Day 17: Fly back to Kathmandu free day to do your own things such shopping, sightseeing etc. Overnight in Kathmandu
Day 18: Departure home or any other destination
Start | End | Price (USD) | AVAILABILITY | Booking |
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MEALS
Every day’s breakfast, lunch & dinner is included in the package during the trekking and climbing. This will be a dish of Nepali, Indian or Continental source cooked by the lodgings you stay at and will be cooked by our professional cook during the camping.
PACKING LIST:
While packing for “Island Peak Climbing,” warm clothing is important to ensure comfort and safety, while non-essential gear such as a knife may simply come in handy. Here we have a suggested packing list to guide you in preparation:
List of Climbing Equipments
Personal equipments | Collecting Equipments or Group Equipments |
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ACCLIMATIZATION:
Keep in mind that you will be passing above 5000m/16400ft and reaching at 6187m during the journey to the top of the Island Peak. Walking fast at such elevation could lead to medical complications (Acute Mountain Sickness) which could be serious. There is less oxygen compared to sea level in high-altitudes places. The higher, altitude will be the less oxygen in air. Your body needs a days to acclimatize to this environment, which is why we will stop a day rest in Namche Bazzar and in Island Peak Base Camp. Although we provide information regarding AMS insurance, the only option for treatment is descending (evacuation). We advise that clients with known heart, lung or blood diseases, or clients over the age of 60 to discuss with their doctor before traveling with us.
Symptoms of AMS include mild to severe headaches, dizziness, fever, loss of appetite or stomach pain; it is important to alert our staff if you are feeling poorly to ensure that illness does not progress.
HEALTH & EXPERIENCE REQUIRED
The Island Peak Climbing involves five to seven hours walking per day and Ice climbing during the climb. However, it is some part of this trip at very high altitude, which will take a physical toll. There are no special physical or training requirements, but if you have high altitude experience & trekking is a benefit.