Island Peak Climbing - 18 Days

76 Reviews in TripAdvisor
21 Reviews in Google

Island Peak Climbing, the name of this mountain was set in 1953 by Eric Shipton’s party who were on their way to explore the Barun Gorge. Seen from above Dingboche the mountain does certainly look like an island in a sea of ice. In 1983 it was renamed Imja Tse, although for most people the expressive name of Island Peak seems to have been retained.

Duration
18 Days
Trip Grade
Streneous
Country
Nepal
Maximum Altitude
6,187m.
Group Size
Min. 1
Starts
Kathmandu
Ends
Kathmandu
Travel Style
Trekking & Climbing
Best Time
March – May & September - November

Trip Highlights:

  • Climb the iconic trekking peak Island Peak (Imja Tse), 6,189 m.
  • Follow the historic 1953 Everest expedition training route.
  • Stunning approach through Dingboche, Chhukhung, and the Khumbu Valley.
  • Exciting mix of trekking, scrambling, glacier travel, and fixed-rope climbing.
  • Summit views of Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and the Everest region.
  • Safe ascent supported by professional Nepalese Sherpa climbing guides.

Seen from the moraines between Pheriche and Dingboche the mountain doesn’t look too imposing, dwarfed as it is by one of the largest mountain faces in the world; the South Face of Lhotse. However, on close examination it reveals itself to be an attractive and gorgeous summit with a highly glaciated West Face rising from the Lhotse Glacier. The mountain itself is really an extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated from it by a small col. Above this gap, rising to the south, is a classically beautiful ridge leading to the summit of lmja Tse ( Island Peak). The continuation of this ridge, downward south-west, provides part of the normal route of ascent and leads in turn to the South Summit, seen capping the rocky west surface of the mountain when viewed from near Chhukhung.

Island Peak was first climbed in 1953 by a British team as a preparation exercise in training for Mount Everest. Tenzing Norgay Sherpa was one of the members of this first climbing team.

Island Peak is one of the most famous trekking peaks in Nepal as it requires to made-up mountaineering high altitude experience, you will be completing your dream to reach on top of this imposing Island peak which is supported by our Nepalese professional climbing Sherpa guides.

To climb Island peak, one has the option of starting from a base camp at 5,087 m (16,690 ft) called Pherichya, Gyab and starting the climb between 2 and 3 am. Another admired option is to climb to High Camp at around 5,300 m (17,400 ft) to decrease the amount of effort and time needed for summit day. However, sufficient water supply and concerns about sleeping at a higher altitude may dictate starting from base camp. Base camp to high camp is basically a hike but just above high camp, some rocky steps require moderate scrambling and up through a broad open channel. At the top of the channel, glacier travel begins and proceeds up to a steep snow and ice slope.

From here, fixed ropes may be setup by the guides for the strenuous ascent of nearly 100 m (330 ft) to the summit ridge. The climb to the summit is somewhat difficult due to steep climbing. On top, while Mount Everest is a mere ten kilometers away to the north, the view will be blocked by the massive wall of Lhotse, towering 2,300 m (7,500 ft) above the summit.

If you wish to make your trip longer to Island Peak then our 23 Days Everest Base Camp and Island Peak or 25 Days Island Peak Climbing via Gokyo Chola Pass and Everest Base Camp is option for you.

Short Itinerary Outline

Island Peak Climbing - 18 Days Detailed Itinerary

1Day

Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to the hotel.

Our airport team welcomes you at Tribhuvan International Airport on your arrival day. You will have a hassle-free transfer to hotel from airport. The remaining day is free for rest and enjoy your bustling surroundings.

2Day

Sightseeing tour in Kathmandu and prepare for climbing and trekking.

It is a day for Sightseeing in Kathmandu Valley and trek preparation. We will arrange a professional tour guide for you and a private car/van/bus with a driver to explore between monuments. The Tour guide will take you to UNESCO World Heritage Sites such Kathmandu Durbar Square, Pashupatinath, Swayambhunath and Boudhanath Stupa, the historical and cultural sites you’ll visit today.

After completion of your day tour, you will be meeting with your trek guide at our office/hotel. He will brief you about the Trek, Climbing and all the essentials. The Thamel has many trekking gear shops, where you can buy missing gear in the late evening if you need.

3Day

Fly to lukla and Trek to Phakding

The most awaited adventures EBC Trek begins today. First, we take a short flight from Kathmandu to Lukla [2850m], which offers aerial and stunning views of the mountain scenery.

The next part of the day involves a 4 hours trek to Phakding through the Dudh Koshi River Valley. It’s a gentle descent from Lukla along rocky and well-made stone paths. On the way we will pass Cheplung village and reach at Ghat then trail will ascends to the Phakding Village.

4Day

Trek to Namche Bazar

From Phakding, we double cross a river on high suspension bridges. Beyond Monjo is the entrance to the Sagarmatha National Park which was introduced in order to protect and preserve the fragile mountain environment. Next it’s a steep hike to Namche. If the weather is clear, we get the first glimpse of Mt Everest. Namche is a central trading village in the Khumbu and has a busy Saturday market – an old time meeting place for the Hindu traders who hail from the lowlands and the Tibetan yak caravans that have crossed the glaciated Nangpa La.

5Day

Acclimatization in Namche Bazar. Visit some Sherpa Villages such Thame, Khumjung etc.

Today, we will spend the day at Namche Bazaar. It’s the largest village in the Khumbu region and has many modern facilities, such as WIFI, ATMs, Cafe and Museums. In the morning, we take a hour walk up to the Everest View Hotel, Syangboche for stunning views of the Himalayan Mountains, including Everest, Ama Dablam, Nuptse, Lhotse, Thamserku and Kantega.

Later in the evening we will explore Namche Bazaar’s market and visit the Visitor Center and Sherpa Culture Museum.

6Day

Trek from Namche Bazzar to Tengboche

From Namche, the trail goes uphill on to the side of the valley, high above the Dudh Kosi. This is where we get our first really good views of the great peaks of the Khumbu including Mt Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. Hiking by several villages and numerous tea shops, we descend steeply to a suspension bridge over the river at Phungi Thanga. This village is a good stop for lunch & rest. Here we can relax before making the steep climb to Tengboche. Although the hike up the zigzag path is taxing, it presents us with many beautiful sights of rhododendron bushes with beautiful birds and delightful mountain scenery. Tengboche is famous for its celebrated monastery, the largest in the Khumbu. A wonderful panorama of Mt. Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam mounting in the horizon can be seen from the tea house.

7Day

Trek from Tengboche to Dingboche

We descend downhill through a forest, cross the Imja River and climb steadily to the village of Pangboche. This village stands exactly opposite of Ama Dablam [6,856 m], and has special views of the mountain, with the gompa, mani walls and scattered pine trees in the foreground. From here, a further two hours walk brings us to Dingboche.

8Day

Trek Dingboche to Chukkung Valley trek up to Chukung Ri

The trek from Dingboche to Chukkung Valley, the trails walk us through rocky trails and alpine meadows with stunning views of Island Peak, Ama Dablam, Lhotse, and Nuptse.You  can then climb Chukkung Ri (5,550m), which offers 360-degree panoramic views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks.  After enjoying the summit, descend back to Chukkung village for an overnight stay in tea houses.

9Day

Trek Chukkung to Island Peak Base camp

The trek from Chukkung to Island Peak Base Camp walk us through the rocky, moraine, and glacial streams to pass scattered alpine vegetation and boulder fields. En-route, trekkers can enjoy spectacular views of Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam-the peaks rising above the valley. Island Base Camp is use as staging area with tents and climbing equipments. It is rugged and exposed, with dramatic views of glaciers and high Himalayan walls. You can rest here before summitting.

10Day

Acclimatization and Climbing Practice. Overnight in Tent.

After early breakfast, we spend the whole day preparing and acclimatizing for the summit. We typically do short hikes, practice using carmpons, ropes, and ice axes, and familiarize themselves with basic climbing techniques with the help of certified guides. This helps your body adjust to the high altitude and ensures safety for the summit attempt. We spent night at base camp.

11Day

Trek to High Camp

From Base Camp, the trail climbs very steeply through rocky moraine, ice, and boulder-strewn slopes towards High Camp at 5,600m. The climb is physically demanding in thin air at high altitude, so the trekkers move slowly and take more frequent breaks to acclimatize. Dramatic Himalayan scenery is seen along the way, with Island Peak-Imja Tse, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam, with expansive glaciers below and rugged mountain walls above.

High Camp is just a simple tented area that often serves as a launching point for the summit attempt. The overnight at High Camp enables climbers to rest and further acclimatize for an early morning summit push.

12Day

Summit Island Peak (6187m) and Trek back to Chukung

Today we will have an early start at 1or 2 AM in the morning and moving up the rock band with head lamps. The initial part of the route has a steep ascent onto rocky slopes and scree, which lead upward to the glacier. After putting on crampons and ropes, you cross over crevasses and head up fixed lines in steep ice and snow sections. The most challenging part is final climb to the summit ridge, involving a steep headwall where climbers use jumar ascenders and fixed ropes.Reaching the top of Island Peak (6,187m) rewards you with stunning 360° views of the Himalayan giants, including Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Ama Dablam, Baruntse, and the stunning glaciers of the Imja Valley.

After viewing the summit and snapping pictures, you start descending back to High Camp.From there, you descend further down to Island Peak Base Camp. After a short break and packing, you trek back to Chukkung, which is reached by afternoon. This long day but rewarding one is considered the climax of the Island Peak climbing journey.

13Day

Trek back to Dingboche

The trek from  Chukkung Valley to Dingboche, the trails walk us through the same rocky trails and alpine meadows with stunning views of Island Peak, Ama Dablam, Lhotse, and Nuptse. This section is peaceful and scenic, with the terrain gradually shifting from rocky moraine back to open meadows. After a relaxed 3-4 hour walk, you arrive in Dingboche, a larger village with comfortable tea houses—perfect for rest after completing the Island Peak climb. Overnight in Lodge.

14Day

Trek Dingboche to Khumjung

The route from Dingboche to Khumjung is first down to Shomare and Pangboche with its mani walls, prayer flags, and striking views of Ama Dablam. Continuing on after Pangboche, the trail passes through forests of pines before crossing a suspension bridge over Imja Khola and further on to Tengboche.

From here you drop via a forested path with plenty of rhododendrons down to the river, cross again, and make a gradual ascent to Khumjung, one of the largest Sherpa villages in the region. The village is situated just below Khumbila and enjoys spectacular Ama Dablam and Everest views.

15Day

Trek Back to Phagding

The Khumjung to Phakding trek starts with a gentle walk through the village and joins the main Everest trail near Namche Bazaar. Down from Namche on a long zigzag path, you have final views of Kongde Ri and the Dudh Koshi valley. After crossing several suspension bridges, including the famous Hillary Bridge, the trail follows the river through pine forests and small settlements like Jorsalle and Monjo, where you exit Sagarmatha National Park. Then you reach Phading Village.

16Day

Trek Back to Lukla

It normally takes 3 to 4 hours to make the trek from Phakding. The trail follows the Dudh Koshi River, passing small villages, suspension bridges, and forested paths. For the most part, it is an easy, uphill walk with lovely mountain and river views-a pleasant last day for the Everest Base Camp trek before reaching Lukla, from where the trekkers usually fly to Kathmandu.

17Day

Fly to Kathmandu

Today, we take a short flight back to Kathmandu. The views during the flight are perfect. After  touchdown to the airport in Kathmandu, our team will trasfer you to the hotel and  take care everything while check into your hotel.

The remaining time of your day is yours for leisure, treat yourself to a relaxing Spa treatment and Massage, shopping for souviners and more.In the evening, the company will organize a farewell dinner with cultural program, where you will meet with the team of your trek for the last time.

18Day

Transfer to the airport for your flight to Home

As we have successfully completed the trip, it is time to return home or embark on your next journey. Even you can join our next adventures trips in the Himalayas if you wish too. If not, our airport team will take care of your airport escort and say you our last goodbye till the next adventure holidays.

Still Confuse?
No worries — Our team is ready to guide you every step of the way.

Cost Details

Includes

  • Airport transfer on arrival and departure with an escort.
  • Sagarmatha (Everest) National park fee permit.
  • Island Peak climbing permit.
  • Garbage deposit fee.
  • Trekking Map of Everest region which cover Island peak as well.
  • Full Board Plan {Vegetarian and non vegetarian 3Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner with tea or coffee) during trekking and climbing.}
  • Hot drinks during camping (from Island peak base camp and above).
  • Standard twin sharing accommodation in 3/4 star hotel in Kathmandu with breakfast. (3nights).
  • Twin sharing Tea Houses / Lodges, Guesthouses and Tented accommodation during the trek and climbing (11 nights trekking lodge and 3 nights tented camp).
  • Sightseeing tour in Kathmandu with professional tour Guide by car, van, bus.
  • An experienced English speaking licensed holder climbing/trekking Guide.
  • The Required number of staffs & porters to carry your luggage during the trekking & climbing.
  • Food, drinks, salary, insurance, equipment, transportation, accommodation, medicine and local tax for guide, porters and for all staffs,
  • Down Jacket and sleeping bag by Higher Limits (which needs to be returned after the trip.)
  • Kathmandu –Lukla – Kathmandu flight ticket & domestic airport tax.
  • General Climbing equipment such as Rope, Ice Screw, Snow Bar, All quality Tent, Mattress, Harness & necessary kitchen gear etc.
  • Surface transfer from and to Kathmandu.
  • Medical kit box and Oximeter
  • TIMS (Trekkers’ Information Management Systems) card.
  • All government taxes and paper work.
  • A farewell Dinner and Cultural Program with team of HLT.

Excludes

  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu approximately 15$ to 20$ per day.
  • Entry fees for heritage site, temple and monasteries while sightseeing in Kathmandu.
  • Your travel insurance (Compulsory).
  • International flight ticket.
  • Any expense of personal nature.
  • Nepal entry visa fee US$ 25 (duration 15days from date of issue), US$ 40 (duration 30 days from date of issue) and US$ 100 (duration 90 days from date of issue) you can easily issue your visa upon arrival at Tribhuwan International Airport in Kathmandu. You will require two passport size photos.
  • Any kinds of Bar bills such Alcoholic, hot and cold drinks, laundry etc.
  • Helicopter Rescue & Evacuation fee in case of emergency.
  • Tips for trekking staff and driver (Tipping is expected).
  • Personal Equipment for climbing &trekking.
  • Anything not mentioned on price includes section.

Equipment Lists for Island Peak Climbing - 18 Days

While packing for “Island Peak Climbing,” warm clothing is important to ensure comfort and safety, while non-essential gear such as a knife may simply come in handy. Here we have a suggested packing list to guide you in preparation:

(Note: This is just a guideline to help you on your preparation.)

 

Upper Body Layers
+
  • Water & wind proof four seasons down jacket (Can be rented in Kathmandu)
  • Woolen T-shirt/base layer
  • T-shirts
  • A thick pullover/fleece
  • Rain Coat (Necessary) (Poncho)
  • Win stopper
Lower Body Layers
+
  • Shorts / skirt for sunny days
  • Trousers / track suit or long pants
  • Thermal long underwear 
Footwear & Accessories
+
  • Walking (Trekking) boots and sandals for rest (Shoes should be water proof)
  • Warm socks (woolen is best)
Head & Sun Protection
+
  • Warm woolen hat
  • Sun protection hat (Cap)
  • Flashlight with spare batteries
  • Sunglasses
Personal & Medical Kits
+
  • Personal medical supplies (Make sure that you have high mountain travel insurance and personal fisrt aid medicine).
Miscellaneous
+
  • Swiss army knife
  • 2pin plug for charging camera and phone
  • Power bank & many more…..

Essential Information

Meals/foods:

Every day’s breakfast, lunch & dinner is included in the package during the trekking and climbing. This will be a dish of Nepali, Indian or Continental source cooked by the lodgings you stay at and will be cooked by our professional cook during the camping.

Acclimatization:

Keep in mind that you will be passing above 5000m/16400ft and reaching at 6187m during the journey to the top of the Island Peak. Walking fast at such elevation could lead to medical complications (Acute Mountain Sickness) which could be serious. There is less oxygen compared to sea level in high-altitudes places. The higher, altitude will be the less oxygen in air. Your body needs a days to acclimatize to this environment, which is why we will stop a day rest in Namche Bazzar and in Island Peak Base Camp. Although we provide information regarding AMS insurance, the only option for treatment is descending (evacuation). We advise that clients with known heart, lung or blood diseases, or clients over the age of 60 to discuss with their doctor before traveling with us.

Symptoms of AMS include mild to severe headaches, dizziness, fever, loss of appetite or stomach pain; it is important to alert our staff if you are feeling poorly to ensure that illness does not progress.

Health and Experience Required:

The Island Peak Climbing involves five to seven hours walking per day and Ice climbing during the climb. However, it is some part of this trip at very high altitude, which will take a physical toll. There are no special physical or training requirements, but if you have high altitude experience & trekking is a benefit.

Need Help? Call Us+977 9851163811